Light Studio Tips

Non-SLR Digital Cameras

The Department of Visual Arts currently only uses super-zoom type consumer-level cameras which do not have a single-lens reflex. The shutter reaction is slightly delayed compared to DSLR, but the image quality and functionality of such a camera can be comparable for a smaller price. The zooms on these cameras are quite impressive, and an DSLR with equal zoom power would not be cost effective.

Camera Flash

Always keep the flash off when taking photos of artwork. In low light situations, use a tripod to stabilize the camera during shooting and to avoid the effects of camera shake.

Focus

Most non-SLR digital cameras have an automatic focus which is activated by lightly pressing and holding the shutter button while pointing to the subject. The shutter button should remain slightly pressed until completely pressed when capturing the image. The area being focused, depending on the camera, is usually indicated by a crosshair or rectangle on the viewfinder, and it will either beep or turn green when a good focus is made. If your camera is having trouble focusing on your subject, try pointing the crosshair to an area that is of high contrast on the subject. A continuous focus function may exist on your digital camera where the camera is always trying to focus on whatever the lens is pointed toward, but this function is not recommended because it causes the battery to lose its charge faster. Some cameras have a manual focus option which is usually set through the camera’s menu.)

Aperture

The opening through which rays of light travel. The larger the opening the more rays of light are allowed through resulting in a less clear image accept where the lens is focusing. The smaller the opening, the lesser and more orderly the light rays enter through the hole, resulting in a more crisp image—or a greater depth of field.

Shutter Speed

The amount of time that light is allowed through to expose an image.
Depth of Field: The amount of sharpness achieved on subjects at different distances within the same image. A greater depth of field is created when less light is allowed into the camera for a given amount of time. A smaller aperture (higher number) makes objects of various distances in the same shot more likely to be in focus—even only one object is targeted to be in focus.

Shooting Modes

Since Auto Mode can have different effects on different cameras, it is recommended to use one of the following camera settings instead—usually set by turning a dial. By changing the setting to one of the modes listed here, one will be able to change the ISO Sensitivity and White Balance (See below)— both important for shooting artwork.

• “P” for Program: Most cameras have a Program mode which allows for an automatic aperture/shutter speed exposure setting while being able to change other settings. For instance if the aperture is set to its lowest setting, the shutter speed will automatically adjust for a good exposure.

• “A” for Aperture-Priority: Setting the Aperture to a low number (making the amount of light allowed through greater but the depth of field lower) will make your shutter speed automatically faster. The faster the shutter speed, the less likely you will have a blurred image from camera shake or vibration. Use of a tripod should eliminate the any blurring issue as long as the camera is achieving a good focus.
• “S” for Shutter-Priority: Setting the shutter speed low (making the amount of time light is allowed through longer) will make your aperture automatically a greater number (a smaller amount—allowing for a greater depth of field). The faster the shutter speed, the less likely you will have a blurred image from camera shake or vibration. Use of a tripod should eliminate the any blurring issue as long as the camera is achieving a good focus.
• “M” for Manual: In this setting, you have full control over the exposure. On most digital cameras, your viewfinder or display screen will preview the lightness or darkness of the exposure before you press the shutter button. Using this setting you may keep the aperture wide open and adjust your exposure by taking several shots with different shutter speeds.
  
  

Setting the Exposure

Always keep the flash off when taking photos of artwork. In low light situations, use a tripod to stabilize the camera during shooting and to avoid the effects of camera shake.

Resolution

Most people keep the resolution at the highest setting when capturing images since memory cards have such a great capacity today. You will probably always want to have a copy of your images at their highest resolution for better quality in printing and enlargement.

Resolution for PowerPoints and Screen Presentation

If you are creating images for PowerPoint, for most situations you will want to reduce the resolution before you import them into the slide show. The image quality on a slide show is no better when you import a 300 dpi image to it then when you import a 96 dpi image to it. However, you will experience a slower performance of your slide show if you import high-resolution images. You may also want to reduce the file size before you upload them to a web site or through Email. You can reduce the image resolution in Photoshop or any image-editing application.

ISO Sensitivity - Keep at 200 or lower for higher quality images

Sensitivity is a measure of how quickly the camera reacts to light. The higher the sensitivity, the less light needed to make an exposure. Although a high ISO rating is suitable for shooting pictures of subjects in action or in poor lighting, high sensitivity is often associated with “noise” — randomly spaced, brightly colored pixels concentrated in the dark parts of the image.

White Balance - Set for “Incandescent”

The color of the light reflected from an object varies with the color of the light source. The human brain is able to adapt to changes in the color of the light source, with the result that white objects appear white whether seen in the shade, direct sunlight, or under incandescent lighting. Digital cameras can mimic this adjustment of the human eye by processing images acceding to the color of the light source. This is known as “white balance.” For natural coloration, choose a white balance setting that matches the light source before shooting. Although the default setting “Auto” can be used under most types of lighting, you can apply the white balance setting suited to a particular light source to achieve more accurate results.

Shiny surfaces of three-dimensional works

It is sometimes difficult to prevent strong washed-out highlights on shiny metallic surfaces. Try using the manual shooting mode to manually adjust the exposure. Also try distancing the light sources from the artwork to make the highlights less stark.

Photographing Artwork For Your Digital Portfolio

 

Equipment Needed:

• Camera (A point-and-shoot version digital with high resolution—at least 5 megabytes)
• Tripod
• Large piece of grey or black paper (larger than the artwork) for use as background for 3-dimensional works

Optional Equipment

• Tungsten lights
• Softboxes or other light diffusion materials
• Dark grey seamless paper – available through photo retailers

Instructions

Method 1 – two-dimensional artwork - outdoor without lighting equipment

1. Begin by choosing a well-lit but low-glare place to shoot—preferably in the shade or during an overcast day to avoid shadows and glare.
2. Hang your artwork on a vertical surface with the center of the work facing out approximately at eye level.
3. Measure the height to the center of the artwork using a tape measure.
4. Set your camera on its tripod and use the height you just measured to adjust the height of the camera. Measure to the center of your lens.
5. Your camera’s distance to the artwork should be determined by your lens’s angle of view. Be sure to fill as much of the image frame as is possible without cropping out any of the artwork.
6. Examine the edges and corners of the art through the viewfinder to be sure there is no distortion or key stoning (when one side appears longer that a parallel side).
7. Set your camera to its highest resolution setting and to its lowest ISO rating for the highest quality images possible.
8. Set your camera to its manual, program, or aperture-priority setting (do not use "auto"). For proper exposure use a hand-held light meter. If this is not available use the photo grey card to take an in-camera light meter reading. Set your camera's aperture and shutter speed based upon your light meter reading.
   • Note: As long as the light does not change significantly, this exposure will provide good results for each piece photographed. There is no need to re-meter. Please note that once the gray card is taken away, the meter may indicate overexposure or underexposure, particularly if the piece is predominantly dark or light. Do not make any changes. Continue using the reading from the gray card.
   • Another way to rest assured that you get a good exposure is by bracketing. If you have manual exposure capability, this means that you can adjust the exposure up or down according the the camera's suggested meter reading.
   • If you are using a point-and-shoot automatic-only camera, you may not have the option to change the exposure, causing some works to have off-balance color or values. On some auto-only cameras you can expose correctly by pointing focus crosshairs of the viewfinder on the area of the object for which want to expose the image and simultaneously half-way hold-down the shutter button as you redirect the camera to the composition you want. Then push the shutter button all the way down.
9. Now you are ready to begin photographing your work.

 

Method 2 – two-dimensional artwork - indoor with lighting equipment

Follow steps 2-8 from method 1 above then...

1. Set up your lights.
• For best results, whether using strobe lighting or high quality tungsten lighting, place lights at an equal distance from your artwork, at approximately 30º angles, being sure to avoid glare. The height of your lights should be on center with your artwork.
2. Now you are ready to begin photographing your work.

Method 3 - three-dimensional artwork – outdoor without lighting equipment

1. Begin by choosing a well-lit but low-glare place to shoot. Preferably in the shade or during an overcast day.
2. Place a table up against a wall. Use push pins or tape to attach neutral gray paper or fabric to the wall above the table, allowing it to sweep down covering the table. Make sure the paper/fabric arcs gently between the wall and the table.
3. If the artwork is producing a lot of glare, the light may be diffused holding sheets of tracing paper or vellum in between the light and the subject. This will soften the light and prevent highlights. See also the tips section for more ideas.
4. Set your camera on its tripod and adjust the height so it is at a low-enough angle to permit a direct view to the front, sides, and back of the work. Also be sure to level your camera using the bubble level to match your art.
5. Your camera’s distance to the artwork should be determined by your lens’s angle of view. Use your artistic judgement to determine the amount of background space needed to properly display the movement of the work.
6. Set your camera to its highest resolution setting and to its lowest ISO rating for the highest quality images possible.
7. Use a hand-held light meter to achieve proper exposure. If not available use the photo grey card to take an in-camera light meter reading. Set your camera's aperture and shutter based upon your light meter reading. If you are using a point-and-shoot automatic-only camera, you may not have the option to change the exposure, causing some works to have off-balance color or values.
   • Note: As long as the light does not change significantly, this exposure will provide good results for each piece photographed. There is no need to re-meter. Please note that once the gray card is taken away, the meter may indicate overexposure or underexposure, particularly if the piece is predominantly dark or light. Do not make any changes. Continue using the reading from the gray card.
   • Another way to rest assured that you get a good exposure is by bracketing. If you have manual exposure capability, this means that you can adjust the exposure up or down according the the camera's suggested meter reading.
   • If you are using a point-and-shoot automatic-only camera, you may not have the option to change the exposure, causing some works to have off-balance color or values. On some auto-only cameras you can expose correctly by pointing focus crosshairs of the viewfinder on the area of the object for which want to expose the image and simultaneously half-way hold-down the shutter button as you redirect the camera to the composition you want. Then push the shutter button all the way down.
8. Now you are ready to begin photographing your work.

Method 4 -  three-dimensional artwork – indoor with lighting equipment

1. Place a table up against a wall. Use push pins or tape to attach neutral gray paper or fabric to the wall above the table allowing it to sweep down covering the table. Make sure the paper/fabric arcs gently between the wall and the table.
2. Place one light on the work as the main or "key" light preferably coming from and angle and from above. The second light should be further away from the subject to help fill in the shadows created by the first light on the opposite. Avoid creating distracting shadows on the background.
3. If the artwork is producing a lot of glare, the light may be diffused holding sheets of tracing paper or vellum in between the light and the subject. This will soften the light and prevent highlights. See also the tips section for more ideas.
4. Set your camera on its tripod so the height of the camera is pointed directly into or slightly above the front, side, or back portions of the work. Also be sure to level your camera using the bubble level to match your art.
5. Your camera’s distance to the artwork should be determined by your lens’s angle of view. Use your artistic judgement to determine the amount of background space needed to properly display the movement of the work.
6. Set your camera to its highest resolution setting and to its lowest ISO rating for the highest quality images possible.
7. Use a hand-held light meter to achieve proper exposure. If not available use the photo grey card to take an in-camera light meter reading. Set your camera's aperture and shutter based upon your light meter reading. If you are using a point-and-shoot automatic-only camera, you may not have the option to change the exposure, causing some works to have off-balance color or values.
   • Note: As long as the light does not change significantly, this exposure will provide good results for each piece photographed. There is no need to re-meter. Please note that once the gray card is taken away, the meter may indicate overexposure or underexposure, particularly if the piece is predominantly dark or light. Do not make any changes. Continue using the reading from the gray card.
   • Another way to rest assured that you get a good exposure is by bracketing. If you have manual exposure capability, this means that you can adjust the exposure up or down according the the camera's suggested meter reading.
   • If you are using a point-and-shoot automatic-only camera, you may not have the option to change the exposure, causing some works to have off-balance color or values. On some auto-only cameras you can expose correctly by pointing focus crosshairs of the viewfinder on the area of the object for which want to expose the image and simultaneously half-way hold-down the shutter button as you redirect the camera to the composition you want. Then push the shutter button all the way down.
8. Now you are ready to begin photographing your work.